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Pie mash and liquor from F Cooke: traditional London food
Pie mash and Liquor is one of the most traditional London dishes and F Cooke are the oldest pie shop to do it. We visited the Hoxton branch to try it out.
Pie mash and liquor from F Cooke in London

I love exploring and trying traditional dishes of countries, so why is my own country any different? Surely, there’s more to British food than fish and chips and curry. And there is! This one’s specific to the east end of London. Come with us to try out one of the most traditional dishes in London! Pie mash and liquor! FYI there’s no actual liquor. And we’re going to be trying it at the oldest spot to be doing this dish, F Cooke. This is a dying meal and such restaurants are becoming scarce now as a result. So, to be able to still sample something so traditional and old school is a joy and an experience in and of itself.

An East End London classic 

This is the original fast food of London and more specifically the east end of London. Forget your fish and chips, chicken and chips and doner. All of them have arguably come from other parts of the world and have become part of our cuisine due to the wonderful multicultural nature of the capital. But the original fast food go to was this: pie mash and liquor. Such pie shops churn out pies and customers like your average chippy. It really is that fast if not faster. F Cooke is the oldest pie shop in the game. They have been doing the London classic, the London traditional, pie mash and liquor since 1868! Making them the oldest establishment to be doing this London gem of a dish. It is claimed that Robert Cooke was the first to put pie, mash and liquor together on a plate! They also do jellied eels which is another traditional delicacy. It’s a daunting looking and sounding dish. But we couldn’t try that because they use meat broth, and that won’t be suitable for the halal or vegetarian diet.

Their menu and old school vibes 

F Cooke’s menu is simple, much like any traditional pie shop (not like your flower wall more businessman than chef spot that tries to do everything under the sun these days). Essentially, they’ve got three things on the menu. But everyone is here for the pie and mash. You simply choose small or large. The second thing is the aforementioned daunting jellied eels. And the third thing is actually an off the menu item, fruit pie with custard/cream to finish off your meal. What did we get? We got the vegan pie because the original isn’t halal. We couldn’t get the jellied eels as mentioned earlier and they were out of fruit pies unfortunately. So, just the pie and mash for us. And the traditional London way is to serve it with liquor, which is actually a parsley sauce. Do not mention the G word here (gravy)!! You then drench it with chilli vinegar, and dig in!

The service was impeccable and something you’d expect from an east end joint. Very jovial, welcoming and warm reception. And their popularity is evident through the amount of visitors (who looked like regulars). I mean she knew their names and their orders! While we sat there waiting for our vegan pie (this took longer than usual because I’m assuming most order the original beef pie and so ours wasn’t ready to go), we witnessed numerous groups of customers walk in, eat and leave. All within minutes. Seemed like a very quick, cheap reliable go to meal for these locals. The turnover was unreal. We must’ve had 4 or 5 different groups sit next to us in the little time we were there. We loved the vibes! It was like going back in time. They had kept not only the menu and the recipe the same, but also little things like the chilli vinegar on the table, the no gravy rule, the fact that only spoons and forks are used (no knives) and the fun fact below is the best of all!

Sawdust fun fact

Here’s a little fun fact. If you do visit, look on the floor and you’ll see sawdust. Why I hear you ask. Because traditionally back in the day people would throw their eel bones on the floor and the sawdust would prevent slippery surfaces. The eel bone throwing doesn’t happen anymore, but they’ve kept this aspect for nostalgic purposes. How cool is that?

Our experience 

I’m a sucker for culture and tradition. So, to experience this pie shop purely for the vibes was enough for me. I’d recommend Londoners to experience this for sure. How was the all important taste? The mash was decent (nothing to write home about) and we both loved the vegan pie. The liquor, or parsley sauce is what caused the differing though. The wife hated it whereas I found it tolerable and an acceptable accompaniment to the pie and mash. It added a tangy twist to this meal. Still prefer gravy though, sorry.

Getting there:

Parking: nearby roads are weekends and evenings free

Nearest Mosque: Suleymaniye Mosque

Nearest station: Hoxton

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