I’ve covered traditional Chinese breakfast in another post. This one is so traditional that a lot of Chinese people haven’t even tried them. These are dishes that are more popular with the older generation and as a result they are not easy to find outside of Chinese homes. How did I find them? One of them was the definition of a hidden gem… literally (read on). The other one was purely accidental. In this post we’ll discuss Miancha and Douzhi.
Miancha
I love it when there’s a story and an experience attached to the food you try. This one’s special.
If you want to explore and experience the Beijing culture, there is no better place than the numerous hutongs scattered around the city. A Hutong is a lane or alley formed by traditional courtyard compounds lining both sides. Sometimes very narrow, always very traditional, old school, full of character and surprisingly clean. You’ll find street food stalls, old uncles and aunties going for their early morning walks, street barbers (old man with a chair and scissors!) and public toilets with no barrier between the toilets. Unfortunately, these are dying down and being replaced with modern buildings.
Looking for food in a Hutong is most definitely a foodie adventure, but couple that with the fact that this particular spot is in an inconspicuous location. No name boards, no signs, no shop front, no website, no instagram. Nothing really. The term hidden gem is so overused now, but this is truly the definition of a hidden gem! How do you know once you’ve arrived? Look for the locals standing outside with bowl full of this goodness. You will see that everyone has a bowl in hand and is attentively sipping on Miancha (translates to flour tea’) – a traditional old Beijing millet and rice flour porridge topped with a thick layer of sesame paste and a sprinkle of sesame seeds. If you go into the courtyard, you will see it’s a husband-wife team making and selling this breakfast dish from their own little kitchen.
The name of the dish is Miancha, but this particular spot has become such a loved spot that it itself has become the dish to try and therefore been named – Daxing Hutong Miancha (named after the address). It is a true classic Beijing breakfast. The filling breakfast is sold at 4 yuan per bowl – that is 40p by the way. Open very early – 6am and close when finished (usually around 8/9) – literally if you snooze you lose with this one. It’s the best bowl of porridge you’ll have – like no other! Slightly salty, right amount of sweet, smooth texture and attractive fragrance and beautiful taste of sesame.
Miancha is a dish which is extremely traditional and local. You won’t find many places doing it all. But you have to try it from this very place for the dish and most importantly for the whole experience. Google Maps usually doesn’t work so well in Beijing, but I managed to locate this fairly easily and it took me right there.
Location: 7 Daxing Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing 北京东城区大兴胡同7号
Douzhi
Douzhi is a fermented mung-bean drink that is a popular breakfast amongst Beijingers. Tried by many, but truly only liked by the older generation in Beijing. It is most definitely an acquired taste. It has a sharp tangy flavour and the smell or I should say stench to be more accurate is strong and very unpleasant. Think dirty gym socks. Douzhi is consumed any time of the day, but it’s typically a breakfast dish accompanied by a small dish of pickled vegetables and jiao quan –crispy, deep-fried rings of hollow batter – this helps to distract you away from the stench, I guess. Typically, it is served in a bowl and you slurp it from the bowl directly. Because it is mainly consumed by the older generation, this isn’t a dish that is readily available. You really have to go deep to find it. I accidentally stumbled upon this one. I got it during a mosque communal breaking of the fast in Ramadan. This is as traditional as it gets!
Did I like it? No, I did not. I took a sip and that was all I could do. And I’m really good with trying new things! The stench was just too off-putting and the drink itself not worth putting up the stench for. My Chinese friend did warn me before I had it and he kept watching me and smiling as I confidently went for it and then within seconds I was like nahhhh. Very rarely am I unable to continue or finish something especially just after one bite. Marmite is one of those things and this is another!
Do check out our post on the more common traditional Chinese breakfast you should have in Beijing.
Picture Credit:
Picture 6 – @mike_wzhao on Instagram
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